Great frequency response, good sound, solid bass hits. Decent output for a single 12. The loudest sub with decent sound Quality that I've bought for under $100.

Tinsel leads tapping, Too much bling makes it look kinda cheap.

I am not sure that my experience is typical with this product or not so if you have a different experience, please be sure to post. I have been involved in car audio for almost 10 years now. I am fascinated by low frequencies and I have used many different subwoofer setups.

I purchased 1 of these subwoofers on ebay a few years ago. I still own it. I believe I paid about $78 including shipping. I installed it in a sealed aplication with aprox 1.1 cu ft of air space and some stuffing. This driver was tight and had a very smooth frequency response over a fairly wide range. In the small sealed it still had good low frequency extention. I used a 600 watt Autotek amplifier to push it. I would not recomend an amplifier over the rated 500 watts rms. After a short stint at full power the sub was fairly hot and I am confident that If I continued to drive it hard, it would have eventually failed due to heat. For those of you wondering, the amplifier was not clipping and I was able to monitor motor structure temperature because the sub was mounted inverted.

Although overall this was a good sounding subwoofer, I had issues with the tinsel leads tapping against the back of the cone. When the subwoofer was driven hard, there was a slight tapping noise caused by the leads contacting the back of the cone. Yes, I am 100% sure that the subwoofer did not bottom out. I do not know if this problem is typical. I tried several methods to remedy the tapping and that only made it worse. The tapping was not audible from inside the car with the subwoofer in the trunk (sedan) but in a wagon, you can hear the leads tap. I would speculate that in a bandpass enclosure you would not hear this sound either.

After taking it out of my car I also used this sub as a temporary subwoofer for a home audio system. I fed it aproximately 80 watts from a high quality vintage american made receiver. I thought the overall sound was good. 80 watts did not make the leads tap and it was good and loud.

I did a lot of hypothetical graphs of this subwoofer's response in various enclosures. It will work well in a properly designed vented enclosure as well as bandpass.

I am not sure that my experience is typical with this product or not so if you have a different experience, please be sure to post. I have been involved in car audio for almost 10 years now. I am fascinated by low frequencies and I have used many different subwoofer setups.

I purchased 1 of these subwoofers on ebay a few years ago. I still own it. I believe I paid about $78 including shipping. I installed it in a sealed application with aprox 1.1 cu ft of air space and some stuffing. This driver was tight and had a very smooth frequency response over a fairly wide range. In the small sealed it still had good low frequency extension. I used a 600 watt Autotek amplifier to push it. I would not recommend an amplifier over the rated 500 watts rms. After a short stint at full power the sub was fairly hot and I am confident that If I continued to drive it hard, it would have eventually failed due to heat. For those of you wondering, the amplifier was not clipping and I was able to monitor motor structure temperature because the sub was mounted inverted.

Although overall this was a good sounding subwoofer, I had issues with the tinsel leads tapping against the back of the cone. When the subwoofer was driven hard, there was a slight tapping noise caused by the leads contacting the back of the cone. Yes, I am 100% sure that the subwoofer did not bottom out. I do not know if this problem is typical. I tried several methods to remedy the tapping and that only made it worse. The tapping was not audible from inside the car with the subwoofer in the trunk (sedan) but in a wagon, you can hear the leads tap. I would speculate that in a bandpass enclosure you would not hear this sound either.

After taking it out of my car I also used this sub as a temporary subwoofer for a home audio system. I fed it approximately 80 watts from a high quality vintage American made receiver. I thought the overall sound was good. 80 watts did not make the leads tap and it was good and loud.

I did a lot of hypothetical graphs of this subwoofer's response in various enclosures. It will work well in a properly designed vented enclosure as well as bandpass.

Despite the issues with the leads tapping, I felt this woofer out performed my expectations at the price I paid. If they used woven leads in the spider, or possibly stiffer tinsel leads, the problem may be solved. I also do not know if anyone else has had this problem or not. To this point I have not successfully solved the issue of leads tapping, but if I do, This sub will probably be re-installed in my car.

Without the tinsel lead problem, I would give this sub 4 stars.

Similar Products Used:

MTX BE12-8 (blue thunder extreme), Power Acoustik Farenheit CK-12D (super tight), Image Dynamics IDQ-15 (Awesome sub, this sub was almost as loud in a sealed box, and almost as deep), Lightning Audio Bolt 10's (cheap crap, this sub blows 4 of them away), Aura Force 12 (this sub is louder), a lot of other 12's that I'd rather forget. :)