good bass, tight and suprisingly accurate, but I had them in the maximum recommended enclosure. But gosh do they hit hard. Mirrors no good and massages all the way around. Only about 250 watts to the two 10s. Great stuff

The styrafoam surrounds chase people away, rubber would be better.
DVC model needed as well

good buy at a reasonable price. I'm buyin two more he he he he

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sounds like any 2 12s. Beats some

amazing output for 1 12", nailed everything i threw at em, i am running it off a 75x2 watt audiobahn amp bridged for 300x1, and this slams the hell out of this sub. i have it in the trunk of my 91' celica and my rear view mirror is useless. people always think i got a pair of 15s in the trunk, then they see that one kicker smiling at em...

i listen to a lot of metal, and when bass drums started going real fast, this sub tended to make one long bass note. i didnt expect great SQ from kicker but i got such a great deal i couldnt pass it up. if you live in florida, check out sound advice, they are simply awesome.

for the price i got this sub at, i am very pleased. the SQ leaves some to be desired, but the low frequency extension and SPL i get from one 12 makes up for it. if you can find them at this low a price, go for it.... i imagine 2 or 3 of these babies would give you bass than you would be able to stand.

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3 12" RF punch, punch 250, 86 monte carlo-kicker hit lows better and actually played louder believe it or not.
2 12" pioneer, kenwood 300 watt, 87 RX-7- couldnt hit the lows as well and played about as loud.
2 12" jl W0's, punch 500, 97 civic- bottom of the line jl doesnt compare
2 15" RF power DVC, RF power 800, 93 escort- ok, this kicked my ass

Strengths tight bass, and they hit very hard for their size

Foam surroundings...The comps need rubber

I give the new kicker comps a great rating because for their size they pack a tremendous punch. Most people think I have more than just one of them in my truck.

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I Hooked up a Mtx road thunder 12' in my ride and my one kicker comp 10" hit much harder

They don't distort as easy as other well known subwoofers, and have exellent power rating.

They should replace the foam surrounding with rubber, they don't produce enough deep bass, I had two 12" pioneer bullets, the good one and they produced really nice bass that you can enjoy and these kickers won't produce deep bass except for hard thumping bass.

If I was to choose another set of subwoofers I would choose the Pioneer bullets, as people think Pioneer subs are no good... well they are but not the new bullets, they have been redesigned. The only disadvantage is that they are only 200rms. If they were 300rms and over they would be the ones i recommend

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Compared with the new Pioneer bullet woofers. I would suggest if you just want hard thumping bass go for the Kickers but if you want nice clear bass all year round choose something else.

I hooked this sub up to 250+RMS and it hits f*ckin' hard. It is one of the tightest subs I have ever used. Great tight bass.

I had it bottom out a few times so I just turned my amp down from 280W to about 250W RMS. Problem solved; bass hits hard.

I paid $100 and got a box for free. Maybe you can get a great deal like that.

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I haven't had 10s in my car ever, so I can't compare it to any of those; but it hits harder than any single twelve I have had in my car (Pioneer 450W 12", Sony Xplod 450W 12")

Hit's hard

not a thing

I have the 10CompVR, it hit's quite hard, and is a wonderful sub. I have a Pioneer Premire running 300w to the one sub. I hit 131.3 at spl with that one sub.

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None

Very low,and very deep bass
I have 2 15 inch kicker comp in a 2.7cu box (seald)

kicker is still using Foam surroundings
The new comp vr needs rubber

I paid about $149.99 about 3 years ago
They still knock the *&%$*^$ out of you in my tacoma ext cab
but the foam surround is dry rotted and comming off. Im about to buy 2 of the new Comp Vr 15's.
No problem setting of car alarms and building alarms,
yes thats right . They realy beat so HARD!!
But i have noticed a slight loss of bass after 3 years of having.

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3 12's 4 10's no problem out bumping

Sound Ok

They distort too easy, I blew one up within the first week with 300watts. They are pretty much worthless for the money. If you want loudness and sound quality. Go Elsewhere.

They are way to much money. Dont buy them

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Kicker, RF, Optimus, PPI, Audiobahn,MTX, Cerwin Vega

Impressive sound

Expensive, but then again they're worth it.

It is true that one can never have too much of a good thing like amplifer power. But saying that increasing amplifier power give more results than increasing subwoofer numbers is not intirely correct.

Notice that when you get past 100W or 200W the sound output increase does not seem to coincide with your volume setting? The reason for this is the simple fact that to add 3dB more to your current SPL you'll need to double your current applied power. To give you an idea a 90dB speaker will put out 110dB with 100W. The same speaker will only reach 113dB for 200W and only 119W for a staggering 800W! More power is better and what most people forget the fact that even a 1000W subwoofer will easily be damaged by a 50W power amp that's set beyond its maximum volume. DC current kills voice coils fast, but clipped amplifier sound gives your subwoofers AIDS.

Remember that your speakers move air, not your ampflifiers. Even tweeters will operate down to 10Hz even all the way down to "0Hz," but it can't displace enough air so you don't hear sound. Practically ALL woofers will vibrate down to 1Hz, it's usually the size of the air displacement that determines whether you'll hear that 20Hz signal. When a manufacturer mentions a frequency resopnse of 30Hz to 3000Hz they're actually saying you'll hear the frequencies between 30Hz and 3000Hz, but our woofer will still vibrate down to 1Hz. What a vehicle's cabin does is augment those frequencies below, say, 30Hz, that's why the same subwoofer will give out more bass in a vehicle. You'll particularly notice lower frequency cut-off.

But imagine if you had a very efficient speaker sensitivity of 100dB (quite hard to design one) then you'll only need a miniscule 100W to reach 120dB! One way to increase the "effective" sensitivity of a subwoofer is to move more air by adding more speakers. For those who'd like a usefull equation to guide you use,

SPL = + (10log[power applied])
ex.
113dB = 90dB + (10log[100W])
119dB = 90dB + (10log[800W])

Note: log is in base 10.

If a speaker could only have mega (and I mean mega) long excursion without sacrificing linearity then more amplifier will make it louder.

Now put those new and additional subwoofers in your car and you'll surely have that 1st prize. Of course you'll need more electrical current too if you want to feed those extra subwoofers. If you currently have a TRUE high current power amplifier then you won't need to (but you can if your budget is enough) add more amps. What you do is parallel those subwoofer voice coils as much as what is (safe) and permissible to draw all that current that your TRUE high current amp can provide.

Happy listening!

The competition subwoofer is an excellent series. I myself have two 10" comps in a sealed enclosure. the amp running them is a zr240, bridged mono pushing about 320 watts to each speaker. to the person who thinks that his speakers perform best at half power is totally stereo illiterate. every speaker, no matter what the brand, size, or enclosure always performs best with max or greater power. To prove that, i hit 135.2 in a S10 blazer. Distortion is not caused by cranking your stereo, it is from underpowering your sub. If you notice there is little distortion at about half volume, it is because the subs are receiving enough power at that level. Plus if you want to add a few db.s just increase the size of your amp not the number or size of speakers.